There are tastes that define childhoods, and then there are tastes that define entire eras. For me, born in 1983 in the Soviet Union, one of those unforgettable flavors is the rich, smoky taste of sprats in oil. Even now, decades after emigrating to the United States, the memory of those golden fish, perfectly arranged in their flat, circular tins, transports me back to simpler times — a small kitchen filled with the aroma of fresh black bread, laughter from relatives gathered around the table, and that peculiar excitement of opening a rare, treasured can.
Getting your hands on a can of Riga sprats usually required connections, luck, or a special occasion worthy of such a treat. If you managed to find them, they were a cherished acquisition, reserved for holidays, family gatherings, or as a gift to impress.
It’s strange to think that the humble Baltic sprat, which became such a delicacy, was once considered “trash.” These small fish, no longer than 10-12 cm, were often discarded or fed to animals. In the late 18th century, some enterprising merchants in the Baltics decided to preserve these little fish by smoking them and covering them in vegetable oil. Then came the breakthrough: canning, invented by Frenchman Nicolas Appert. Soon, canneries popped up across Europe, including Latvia, which would become the sprat capital of the world.
The preparation of sprats was an art form.
The fish had to be caught in winter, from November to March, when they were fattest and most flavorful. After carefully transporting these delicate fish — making sure they weren’t bruised on the bumpy Soviet roads — they were smoked with alder or beechwood, turning them a glistening golden brown.
Their heads and tails were snipped off, and the sprats were meticulously arranged by hand in cans, their bellies up, ready to be bathed in oil and salted. These cans were then left to mature for a month, turned regularly to ensure the oil seeped into every nook and cranny.
During New Year’s celebrations, sprats were a staple on the zakuski table. Next to pickled mushrooms, Olivier salad, and slices of cured meats, those little golden fish added a touch of elegance.
In a society where bartering was common, a can of sprats could be traded for favors, goods, or services. It wasn’t unusual for a family to gift a precious can to a doctor, teacher, or plumber as a token of appreciation.
Of course, the quality of sprats varied over the years. By the 1970s and 80s, as production ramped up and technology changed, the pristine standards of the early 20th century began to slip. Factories started using fish caught year-round, and frozen fish replaced the fresh winter catch.
Even after leaving the USSR, sprats remain a connection to the world we left behind. By the mid-1990s Latvian sprats were easily available in Russian and Ukrainian grocery stores, all types and all kinds.
Now, with the resurgence of tinned fish culture in the West, sprats are being rediscovered by a whole new audience. American and European food enthusiasts are embracing the convenience and elegance of canned seafood, finding joy in the smoky, briny flavors that have delighted generations. Sprats, once a Soviet delicacy, are now featured on charcuterie boards, in gourmet sandwiches, and even in trendy tapas bars.
Consuming Sprats
One of the most classic and simple ways to enjoy sprats is by serving them on a slice of dense, dark rye bread slathered with butter. The buttery richness complements the salty, smoky fish perfectly, and a sprinkle of chopped fresh dill or green onions can add brightness and balance to this humble yet satisfying snack.
Another popular preparation is to use sprats as a key ingredient in deviled eggs. The smooth, creamy filling of the egg yolks, mixed with mayonnaise and mustard, pairs beautifully with the robust flavor of a sprat placed atop each egg half. Sometimes, a small sprig of parsley or a slice of pickled cucumber is added for an extra burst of freshness. Similarly, sprats can elevate the simplicity of an omelet. By folding sprats into the eggs along with sautéed onions or herbs, you create a dish that feels both hearty and refined, perfect for a brunch or light dinner.
For a more substantial meal, sprats can be incorporated into pasta dishes. Tossing spaghetti with sprats, garlic, olive oil, and a touch of lemon juice creates a quick, flavorful dish reminiscent of classic Mediterranean cuisine. The sprats’ saltiness infuses the pasta with depth, while the lemon juice cuts through the richness. Additionally, they make for a delicious topping on bruschetta, where slices of grilled bread are rubbed with garlic and olive oil, then topped with sprats, tomatoes, and capers. Whether served simply on bread, as part of an elaborate appetizer, or in a warm pasta, sprats offer a unique, savory experience that delights the palate.
There is also a sprats canned version called Kilka, which is sprats in tomato sauce, which I will address in a different post.
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