Food, history, and culture by Alexander Pogrebinsky

A Herring Lunch in America

The herring on my plate comes from a Russian deli tucked away in a quiet corner of a Cleveland suburb. Although I now live in the United States, where fast food and convenience reign, it’s comforting to know there are still local shops that source and prepare Old-World ingredients.

The herring, brined in salt and often a hint of vinegar, is one of the culinary cornerstones that carried through Soviet history and into the present day. It’s an unassuming fish, but it boasts a rich flavor, velvety texture, and a notable nutritional profile.

Herring is high in protein and loaded with omega-3 fatty acids, which support heart health and cognitive function. These beneficial fats, along with essential vitamins and minerals, made it a practical and accessible source of sustenance in the Soviet era—something I never fully appreciated as a child. What was once a familiar and commonplace treat has now become a nostalgic delicacy, something I seek out for both its taste and its cultural significance.

On this lunch plate, I’ve paired the herring slices with a dense, dark rye bread—just like we used to have back home in the Soviet Union. Rye bread is a fiber-rich choice that pairs beautifully with the herring’s saltiness. Next to it sits a creamy potato salad made with red-skinned potatoes. Back in the Soviet Union, potatoes were a staple—affordable, filling, and easy to store. Mixing them into a light, homemade dressing transforms them into a satisfying side dish rich in complex carbohydrates and potassium.

For a fresh, crunchy element, I’ve added a simple carrot-and-cabbage slaw. Cabbage, another staple of Soviet cuisine, has always been appreciated for its durability, affordability, and versatility. High in vitamins (especially Vitamin C) and fiber, this slaw balances out the richer flavors on the plate. It’s lightly dressed so as not to overpower the delicate sweetness of the vegetables.

One of the joys of this meal is how simple it is to prepare. You can find brined herring in many European delis or international markets. Once you have the fish, all you need is quality rye bread, a few red potatoes to boil (they’re ready in about 15 minutes), and a basic coleslaw made from shredded cabbage and carrots. Just drizzle on a light, vinegar-based dressing, a bit of salt and pepper, and you have a fresh side dish that complements the herring beautifully.

Putting it all together, I’m transported back to those Soviet cafeterias of my childhood, where good, honest food was often a reminder that there is joy in simplicity. This lunch can transport you back to a different place and time.

This lunch is proof that even a simple plate of brined herring, dark rye bread, potato salad, and fresh slaw can tell a story—a story of health, tradition, and comfort that spans continents and generations.

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